Living in New Zealand: Level 3 Trip to Quail Island to Gather Walnuts (Fail)

Level 3 of lookdown in New Zealand means that we are still not allowed to travel too far, even within NZ (though I am buoyed by the news that we may soon be in a trans-Tasman bubble with Australia). But we are now allowed out on the water, as long as we aren't in a powered craft.

Suits me.

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The autumn often means calm conditions in Lyttelton harbour, with very little wind and flat water. It has been very difficult to resist going out in Level 4, as the Harbour looked like a millpond then.

Conditions in Level 3 have been pretty good too. It was amazing to be on my paddle board last week with no jetskis or boats with outboard motors around me. The birdlife must be loving lockdown and there were noticeably more shore birds around the popular beaches of Quail Island/Otamahua.

Lepers Beach, Quail Island, Lyttelton Harbour, New Zealand

But there weren’t any walnuts.

Scrumped apples and walnuts

I brought back a big bag of apples and they cooked up beautifully. Stewed apple (with a couple of added feijoas) Is one of my favourite comfort foods.

And it's probably better for me than chocolate.

Living in New Zealand: Wild Swimming Safely Is Hard When There Are Idiots on Jet Skis

In the summer I usually swim loads  in Lyttelton Harbour. But it has been an odd summer with too many cool, windy days and the Lyttelton Port Company have been dredging the inner harbour through January and February, our prime swimming months. Plus I have been exceptionally busy in the garden sorting out my new studio. A lot of excuses! But I did swim a lot when I was on Quail Island as volunteer DOC warden. And it reminded me just how much I loathe jet-skis.

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Jet-skis are an abomination and I wish they were only ever used by trained lifeguards (not by bevvied-up blokes and their 10 year old kids, neither of whom know the regulations.)

The speed limit near swimmers is 5 knots, but many boaties and jetskiers ignore this in New Zealand

Whenever I'm swimming I and I see jet-skis I think about poor Kirsty MacColl and I have terrible, murderous thoughts.

At least (for now) you can find places without jetskiers.

Cormorant at Quail Island

Living in New Zealand: Quail Island Was a Place to End Your Days

I’m back from a week on Ōtamahua/Quail Island (as a volunteer DOC warden - see previous post) and enjoyed spending time drawing and writing, when I wasn’t doing warden things (checking for litter, greeting visitors and cleaning the loo!).

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There is a lots of interesting history associated with the island, much of it tragic. Antarctic explorers trained their horses and dogs there for ill-fated expeditions to the Antarctic. And there was a leper colony, where at least two of the poor, isolated tenants ended their days on the island.

But by far the most tragic story is that of the two Ward brothers who came from Ireland with the hope of better life and were dead within months.

The Ward brother history is fascinating (the surviving brothers were very active in early Canterbury life and set up the Ward Brewery which made Canterbury Draught and other beers) and if you want to read more, you should head here:

https://www.nzgeo.com/stories/the-ghosts-of-quail-island/

http://www.peelingbackhistory.co.nz/686/

This was the view from the location of the Ward brothers’ homestead.

You can nearly see our house behind the ridge above the first oil tanks) from there. A sweet valley with a lovely view, but conditions in Lyttelton Harbour can change quickly.

I think the macrocarpas on the island post date the Wards.

Living in New Zealand: Stand Up Paddle Boarding Around Quail Island

Being an island, Ōtamahua is fun to stand up paddle around. But the wind. Even though I got up early and was down at the wharf by seven most days, it was still windy nearly all the time.

Quail Island wharf on a busy morning. Note riffle of water.

Oh well, it was fun to paddle down to King Billy Island and see all birds. Provided the tide wasn't out and I didn't have to walk across the mudflats.

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On my last day the wind dropped, Hurrah!

A rare calm morning on Lyttelton Harbour

Lyttelton from Quail Island wharf

Looking towards Moepuku and King Billy Island, paddling around Quail Island on a calm day with the tide in!