Living in New Zealand: Being a DOC Hut Warden on Ōtamahua/Quail Island

This summer I’m volunteering as a hut warden on Quail Island (if you want to volunteer with DOC you can ask them via their website). I was there for three nights last week and I really enjoyed my time. I didn’t see any mice.

My main responsibilities were to keep the place clean and make sure no one had any open fires. Most people clean up after themselves in DOC huts and I didn't have any problems on that score. The only fire lit was the log burner. It has been cool for January, but I think the old guy staying there when I arrived wanted to light it for the atmosphere more than anything else. In any case it was like a sauna when I walked in and I was glad I wasn't having to sleep in the bunkrooms with the rest of the visitors.

Warden quarters are basic. The bunks aren the same as you find in the huts and you still have to bring gas to cook with and a lamp as there is no power in the hut.

I learned an interesting thing from one of the Trust members. He says that birds usually like to poop before they cross water. Their biggest problem right now are the thistles and Red Valerian - both wind-blown seeds.

The history and returning native bush and birds make the island a fun place to walk around.

Or paddle around:

I’ll definitely be back.

Living in New Zealand: Garden Invaders (This Time it's Ducks)

When we moved back to New Zealand a couple of years ago, one of the first things we had to do was fence out the neighbours sheep. I wanted to plant trees, vegetables and fruit and the sheep wanted to eat them. After they broke through the fence a couple of times, we put in a better fence and then I just had to deal with the possums (I still haven’t managed to trap a single one). 

Then I saw that the neighbours had got chickens. Luckily the chickens seem to like hanging out with the sheep and so far haven't begun to scratch around my seedlings. The same seemed to be the case for the floppy eared rabbit that kept escaping from other neighbours up the hill.

But now we are being invaded by a family of ducks. They are wild and don't belong to anyone, and are fearless too. It takes a considerable amount of shooing to get them to leave my garden.

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Let's hope this year is when we get our new dog who might do a better job at chasing them away than I do.

New Zealand Garden Diary: Perennial Edibles and Sleeping Bumble Bees

This summer is very cool and my tomatoes, courgettes and pumpkins are sulking, but the beans are getting going and the bees and I are enjoying the flowers in my garden, including the artichokes.

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And there are some edible plants that keep going and going. I love how the walking onions are gradually moving around the vegetable patch.

Living in New Zealand: Walking the Banks Peninsula Track

As my 50th approached, I knew I didn't want a party (too many of my friends and family are too far away) and I didn't want to go too far from home. I love being in nature and near the beach, so the boyf treated the two of us to the Banks Peninsula Track: a great three day walk, with someone else carrying our bags for a change.

The track is almost on our doorstep, starting in Onuku, not far from Akaroa. I had expected the walk to be like those around the Port Hills – mostly grazing land, with tiny pockets of remnant bush. But it was a lot more varied. I lost count of the plants I didn't recognise (and will need to look them up in my new book, thanks Mum!).

And there were so many birds in the valleys of dense native bush – kereru, bellbirds, grey warblers and wax eyes.

Kereru - the NZ native pigeon

We walked past (and through) numerous waterfalls in the valley leading to Flea Bay.

Thanks to my sister's voice in my head, I had to swim in the one signposted

It was bloody freezing.

The sea in Flea Bay was nearly as cold, but at least the southerly held off on the morning of my birthday as we made our way to Stony Bay. Ten minutes away from our accommodation, the threatening storm crashed in with rain and hail. We were sheltered by the kanuka woods and made it to the huts without getting too wet (or worse). The Germans behind us were not so fortunate.

They hid in that loo until the storm passed. Luckily it wasn't struck by lightning, as I'm not sure a tin toilet is the best place to be in that situation.

The accommodation on this private walk was a level above what we are used to on normal tramps. Not only were there gas cookers, fridges and electric lights, but there were hot showers! And Stony Bay also had baths of a very Kiwi kind.

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It was an amazing way to wind down after the walk. We then had a curry and some wine and sat around the campfire to talk to our fellow walkers.

My camera doesn’t take great photos in the dark

Guess where the boundary of Hinewai Reserve is…

The last day of the track goes through the Hinewai reserve (managed by the legendary Hugh Wilson (check out the gallery at the bottom of the page for some of his fabulous hand-lettered signs), who is featured in the little documentary Fools and Dreamers, which you can watch on YouTube).

We walked up through native bush, peppered with tree ferns. This gives way to beech forest, before opening out onto gorse on the tops of the hills. There you have fantastic views of the final destination of Akaroa Harbour.

It was lovely to get back to the Land Rover, but I’d do the walk again tomorrow if I could.

More photos: